Outdoor lighting done well makes a garden usable for half the year it otherwise isn't. Done badly it floodlights the lawn, dazzles the neighbours and corrodes in two winters.
Light the features, not the space
The most common mistake is one bright floodlight aimed at everything. Better results come from several low-output fittings picking out specific things: a path edge, a tree, a wall texture, the steps.
Aim for pools of light with darkness between them. It looks better and uses far less power.
Fittings that survive a Cornish winter
Salt air is unforgiving. Coastal properties need fittings specified for the exposure — marine-grade stainless or quality powder-coated finishes, properly rated glands, and sealed terminations.
- Appropriate IP rating for the position, not just 'outdoor rated'
- Marine-grade materials on exposed coastal sites
- Cable buried at proper depth with correct protection
- Accessible driver and junction positions for future maintenance
Control and light pollution
Separate switching for different zones means you can light a path without lighting the whole garden. Timers, photocells and smart control all work, but the wiring has to be planned for it from the start.
Warm colour temperatures and shielded fittings keep light where you want it and out of bedroom windows, yours and everyone else's.
Common Questions
Usually yes — a dedicated, RCD-protected circuit with suitable outdoor-rated cable is the right approach, rather than extending an internal circuit outside.
This article is general guidance, not a substitute for inspection and testing of your specific installation. If you're unsure, call us on 07496 242488 — advice over the phone is free.
